Silverton trio breaks into nano-brewing, Belgian style

For the past few years, three Silverton residents have had a dream of starting a brewery.

Not a giant of industry like breweries found in Milwaukee, Wis. or the micro-breweries of Portland. Instead, Sheldon Lesire, his friend, Eric Druliner, and his father-in-law, Dale Coleman, are setting their sites on the next thing in the beer industry — the nano-brewery.

A microbrewery is generally recognized as any brewery that makes 10,000 barrels of beer or less annually. If conventions of scientific notation are applied to brewing beer, then a nano-brewery would brew no more than 10 barrels a year, because by definition nano is 1,000 times smaller than micro.

But as Coleman put it recently in the machine shop on Western Street were the brewery is under construction, Belgian Underground Brewing might be closer to a pico-brewery at it's current stage.

"We just aren't in a big hurry to get too big, too fast," he said. "Brewing takes time, and we don't want to rush perfection."

The name, Belgian Underground, is in part a tribute to Lesire's "Opa" -- his grandfather who fought in the Belgian Resistance during World War II.

Among beer drinkers, Belgian brews are thought to have more intricate flavors, Lesire said. Where an India Pale Ale might derive much of its flavor from hops, Belgian-style beer gleans its individuality from the yeast used during the brewing process.

Lesire said Belgian Underground Brewing focuses on strong golden ales, farmhouse ales, lagers, fruit beers, and what some are calling the next big thing: sour beers.

So far the trio has held a number of private tastings and a couple public ones, and Lesire said the response has been surprising.

"We didn't really know what to expect. Everyone, our family and friends, have all been super supportive, which is great," Lesire said. "It's not that often that a nano-brewery gets started in Silverton by a half-Belgian teacher, a 6-foot-9 police officer, and a kilt-wearing quality technician focusing on Belgian-styled beers in order to honor the Belgian Resistance."

Lesire teaches special education at Victor Point. Druliner helps keep the peace in Lake Oswego, and Coleman works for Warn Winches in Portland.

But the guys are not ready to quit their day jobs. In fact, they have a plan to take things slow and build the business without going into debt. Instead the group tinkers with recipes and bides their time.

The plan is to keep making improvements and get the product to market next spring. In order to legally sell their beer, the brewery will have to make a few changes as well as get past a number of inspections and a "mountain" of paperwork, as Druliner calls it.

"We will need to close off part of the shop, put up some congregated metal paneling for walls and then take care of all the other legal hurdles," he said. "It might take longer than next spring, but we are optimistic."

Lesire, Coleman and Druliner got their start as many beer makers do, by home brewing beer in the garage. As the hobby flourished, so did the brewers' dreams of making it big.

"We've already had interest and offers to have our beers on tap from Venti's Cafe + Taphouse, Bazi Bierbrasserie, and The Gallon House," Lesire said. "That just makes us want to brew more."

You can keep tabs on the progress of Belgian Underground Brewing on Facebook.

Beer list for Belgian Underground Brewing

Long Last Kiss

A dark malt body combined with a Belgian yeast, Belgian chocolate, and barrel-aged bourbon infused with Madagascar vanilla beans. This porter was brewed in honor of those who spent years courageously living life as if each day might be their last.

Armée Secrète

The Armée Secrète (Geheim Leger, or Secret Army) was the largest Resistance group active in Belgium during WWII. Despite the name, most members were unarmed civilians involved in gathering intelligence and operating safe houses for the protection of those sought by the occupying forces. This golden strong ale was brewed to honor those who showed uncommon courage in defiance of an invading force.

Safe House

Numerous safe houses were secretly operated in occupied Belgium to offer resistance fighters rest or to shelter downed Allied pilots as they were smuggled to safety. This farmhouse ale was brewed to honor those who opened their doors at great peril to themselves in order to provide uncommon hospitality.

Het Vrije Woord

One of many clandestine newspapers in circulation in occupied Belgium, Het Vrije Woord (The Free Word) was an invaluable source of information and usually able to transmit news more quickly and accurately than traditional media. This light and refreshing unfiltered lager was brewed to honor those who risked their lives to make sure the truth was told.

Source: Belgian Underground Brewery